In a previous post about SPQR, we mentioned that we were amazed how, with every visit, the food from Chef Matthew Accarrino just keeps getting better and better (we are not even sure how that’s possible). We also said that we try to dine there as much as we can; however, it has become much more difficult to get a reservation since they were awarded a prestigious Michelin star for 2013.
Chef Accarrino’s food continues to evolve, and the Italian-centric wine program put in place by Owner-Sommelier Shelley Lindgren remains one of the best in San Francisco. Many of the wines are available by the glass, a carafe or full bottle, and the list changes constantly. The glass or carafe options offer a great way to try some of the more unfamiliar Italian wines.
Under the capable hands of our server Natasha, we started with a carafe of a Southern Italian white wine:
We ordered the Veal Tongue Pastrami which came with a potato confiture, shaved fennel, radishes and a sweet onion jam. With caraway seeds and aioli dipping dots providing additional flavor, it was very reminiscent of eating a deconstructed pastrami sandwich:
We moved on to drinking the Travaglini Gattinara Nebbiolo wine from Piemonte to pair with the rest of our meal:
The “Collo di Faraona” provided both a guinea hen and it’s egg on the same plate. THe boneless roulade of crispy chicken “neck” was served with the fried egg over a tomato based mixed bean stew. This was a great example of Italian comfort food at its best:
There is almost always a Bone Marrow Sformato available on the menu; however, the dish preparation and accompaniments do change occasionally. This updated version featured squares of short rib and brussels sprouts served 3 ways: halves, shredded and puréed. Strips of candied horseradish are playfully strewn over the creamy custard:
We shared the superb Semolina Gnocchi and Meatballs dish as our main dish. We marveled at the sameness of size between the pasta and the meatballs along with the fact that there was an even ratio of meat to pasta “balls”:
We would like to come back and dine more often to eat at SPQR, but now it requires more advanced planning. SPQR’s Michelin star is well deserved and we look forward to our next reservation.
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